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Avocado
Avocado
Carreglefn Nurseries
AVOCADO CARE AND CULTURE
ESTABLISHING YOUR NEW AVOCADO
Once established, avocados are fairly tough trees. However, many avocados fail during the first 12 months due to poor soil drainage, sunburn or improper irrigation habits. Follow these easy guidelines. Drainage:Avocado trees like loose, decomposed granite or sandy loam soils best. They will not survive in locations with poor drainage! Poor water drainage in the root zone leads to the vast majority of plant failures. Water must drain freely and quickly through the soil. Avocados will not compromise on this requirement! In containers, use Gardener and Bloome Cactus Mix exclusively. This is a very fast draining soil mix. Use a container that has plenty of large drainage holes in the bottom and is well insulated, to keep the root cool during the hot summer months. Sunlight/Sunburn:Avocados have almost no brown, woody bark like other plants. Notice that the stems and main branches of your tree are bright green. These branches and stems are photosynthesizing and providing food and energy for your tree, just like the leaves. However, this green tissue on the stems and bark is very susceptible to sunburn. Young trees do not have enough leaves to shade this bark and some special care should be given during this first year or two. One option is to protect your young plant from the full sun by sheltering it under another high tree or under a bright patio cover. Another very effective method is to paint the green trunk and main branches with a whitewash. This can be easily made by diluting a white latex paint with an equal part of water and painting it on the trunk and branches, but not the leaves. Reapply as needed until the tree grows enough foliage to shade itself, usually within a year or two. Watering:After drainage, proper irrigation is the most critical factor effecting the establishment of your new avocado. Unless drainage is quick, even the most careful attention to watering will not help. Over irrigation can induce root rot, which is the most common cause of avocado failure. To test to see if irrigation is necessary, dig a hole 9 inches deep and test the soil by squeezing. If it is moist (holds together), do not irrigate; if it crumbles in the hand, it may be watered.
WHAT TO EXPECT
Avocados are a dense, evergreen tree that will grow in shade and between buildings, but are fruitful only in full sun. They drop leaves regularly throughout the year and shed many leaves in early spring. They are fast growing and can become large trees, but can be reduced in size periodically and kept to a reasonable size. New growth is primarily from spring through early fall, with the cool winter months being a period of rest. The roots are competitive, coarse, greedy, will compete with nearby plants, and may raise pavement with age. The shade under the trees is too dense, and there is abundant leaf litter. Because of the regular leaf drop, size of the plant, root system and specific water needs, your avocado should be carefully located in your garden. Your avocado will usually flower between January and April. Large clusters of 200 to 300 small flowers will cover the tree. Approximately 99% of these flowers will NOT set fruit – this is normal. Some varieties often bloom and fruit in alternate years. Avocado fruit does not ripen on the tree; nor does it fall to the ground when ripe. Pick the fruit when green and hard and allow it to ripen at room temperature for three to five days. The oil content of the fruit will be high when harvested at the correct time.
LONG TERM CARE AND CULTURE
Mulch – Leaf Debris:Avocados drop a considerable amount of leaves throughout the year. In nature, as well as in commercial orchards, these leaves are allowed to lay in place and accumulate for years, often developing into layers up to two feet thick. This leaf litter provides several benefits to the plant, including regulating the soil temperatures and soil moisture, encouraging beneficial soil organisms, and providing some organic nutrients.
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